Ok, just wanted to repeat again: there are lots of ways (and even philosophies) to do this team thing, several of them work, a lot of them don’t, I will just share with you want works for me.
Basics of my work with the HMUA is to pick a right person (she/he could work if I tell her/him to change this and that = she/he will not be a good fit) and then make sure we are on the same page about the story. I think it’s not right at all to pull out a picture and tell HMUA “Just do this”. Think of it: you are probably doing photography for several years now and you learned so much; your HMUA spent all that time learning hair and makeup, she/he knows a lot, tried a lot, made mistakes, had success — she/he knows which makeup works on which face, what color complement certain skin and what texture can be done on different skin-type.
One thing you can help with technically is explaining where the light will come from, because it needs to be taking into account when sculpturing the face. For example with light from up you can’t make eyes too dark (especially if they are positioned rather deep) because you will end up having just black holes around eyes.
You can also ask not to do certain things (like for example I don’t like artificial eye lashes that have periodic structure like this), or point out that we will have windy location if I see that the hair are very elaborate. But it’s HMUA’s part of the equation to decide what look will work given this limitations
Do I always need HMUA? Not always. If you work with beauty blogger or if you work with a model and the makeup will be really “regular” you can do without HMUA. But never work without one for a client — they will see it as a way to save some money and it will be 300% more retouch for you or really below average pictures for them.
Can I be the HMUA or my own shoot? Many people take this direction. It allows you to be more independent. But it also takes time to learn and takes energy on set (you will need to carry the light, camera, hair and makeup cases and do the makeup for 1–1.5 hours so you will be already tired when you start shooting). If you love makeup it might still be cool because you can think about the lighting and makeup together as a system. But you also can end up working by yourself each time and not hearing other people’s perspective during the shoot. You know sometimes you think something is a good idea, but it’s really not and any collaborator would save your story by giving you some honest feedback.
HMUA vs MUA+hair. Plus of one person doing both makeup and hair is more cohesive overall vision; minus is it will take twice more time because MUA and hair stylist can work in parallel.
Vision Exchange. Just giving you couple of examples of the mood board I send to HMUA to explain the visual language of given story:
Working with someone longterm. I used to work with the same girl almost every week for 6 years. She did hair and makeup and we put our resources together to do styling (or sometimes involved someone for that). It was totally amazing because of deep trust and understanding we built. We coevolved and I learned most of what I know because I was able to experiment working with her. At the same time we were both working with other people in parallel and we really matched when it came to not only aesthetics, but also life views.
Worse Case Scenario. My worst HMUA collaboration happened when we did a big advertorial for jewelry brand and the HMUA disregarded entirely our direction. We asked for mat, white and pick Russian Ballerina, but HMUA got carried away with models features and ended up with glossy gold South-Of-France Race Car Driver. The location, wardrobe and light were still from ballerina story so we got terrible mismatch. Obviously the HMUA worked for her portfolio rather then all team’s benefit. I still don’t think it was a fault of my method though, just a fault of HMUA selection process at that time.
Strong personalities. When working on beauty story it will happen to you that HMUA starts to treat you as an assistant rather then equal co-creator. Some photographers just take it, but I know this dynamics won’t work for me and the pictures will end up not looking good. It’s my job to make the pictures look best and hence it’s my job to make sure I have what I need to do that. And what I need is control on set (even if the HMUA is my client). So in the end the HMUA is a boss about how model looks, but I am a boss of what she actually does (direction, emotion, lighting, relation to environment). If you play it right and stay respectful and thoughtful, the power struggle can actually push you both to do better work :)